Basilicata Trail 2024

Pedals, History, and the Mystery of Montemurro

Why would a large portion of the population in one Italian region share the same last name? And what does that have to do with my latest bikepacking adventure? It all began about six months ago when I signed up for this year’s edition of the Basilicata Bike Trail (BBT). In 2023, the BBT joined the growing list of bikepacking events, providing the perfect opportunity to explore new places and meet people you'd otherwise never encounter.

These types of unsupported cycling events range from 300 to 700 km (187-437 miles), taking riders through unique territories. It’s the perfect way to pursue my goal of bikepacking through all 20 regions of Italy, both on the mainland and the islands. The Basilicata region was one of those places I’d only heard of, and not many Italians, let alone foreigners, seem to have visited it. Recently, though, it's gotten some well-deserved attention since Matera, its second-largest town, was named a UNESCO Global Capital of Culture. The prospect of riding through such a storied region had me excited.

The Start of the Adventure

The ride kicked off at 8 AM in Potenza, the regional capital. This time, I was fortunate to be joined by a good friend whose wife is from Basilicata. Riding with a buddy always makes the journey more enjoyable—and often faster. As we pedalled through car-free roads and lunar-like landscapes, my friend kept me entertained with stories about the region’s history and natural beauty.

Speaking of history, back to that common last name, Montemurro. I learned about an earthquake that struck the town of Montemurro in 1857, claiming over 10,000 lives and leaving hundreds of children orphaned. These children were all given the last name Montemurro, hence its prevalence in the region. It’s moments like these that remind me how much bikepacking lets you connect with a place beyond just its landscapes.

Detours and Discoveries

By the 70 km mark on the first day, we faced a tempting decision: Should we stick to the designated route or take a detour to Matera, a must-see destination for anyone venturing this far south? We opted for the detour, and 50 km later, we were rewarded with an astonishing view—Matera, a town carved entirely out of rock, including its massive cathedral. It instantly shot into my top five cities. We ended the day early, around 4 PM, with plenty of time to wash our clothes and indulge in a fantastic dinner. That night, we were warmly hosted by my friend’s extended family, enjoying the famous hospitality of southern Italy.

Day 2: The Challenge Grows

Day 2 began with the realisation that our detour to Matera had put us behind schedule. We now had 180 km to cover in less than 10 hours of daylight. Luckily, the scenery only got better. As we rode, it felt like we were crossing different countries—desert-like flats gave way to scorching climbs, followed by cool, shady forests. Windmills dotted the horizon, and at times, we felt like Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, battling the next climb.

Our stop for the night was in a tiny, hilltop town with only one pizzeria. There, we met two other riders and swapped stories over pizza, recounting the day’s adventures.

Day 3: Slowing Down to Savor

We woke up early on Day 3, around 6 AM, and devoured a massive breakfast, eating enough for four or five people. This was the day to truly take it easy. Unlike many gravel or ultra-distance events, these bikepacking challenges aren’t about speed or performance. They’re about enjoying the journey. We were joined by another rider we had met on the first day and decided to keep pace with the slowest in our group. My friend climbed faster, I flew downhill, and our new friend seemed content to take things a little too easy!

The slower pace began to affect our plans for returning to Rome. We had hoped to push through until the finish in Potenza, but with just 8 km to go, our fatigue caught up with us. Hungry and exhausted, we stopped for a meal, devouring our food like starving street dogs.

In the end, we rolled into the finish line in 3rd, 4th, and 5th place, just behind two young MTB riders on their first bikepacking adventure. Seeing people in their twenties taking part in these challenges is always a win in my book—it gives hope for the future of bikepacking.

A Ride to Remember

This adventure wouldn’t have been the same without my friend, who not only filled me in on the rich history of Basilicata but also reintroduced me to the Pixies, a rock band from the ‘80s that I somehow thought I didn’t know.

As I reflect on the Basilicata Bike Trail, I’m reminded that these trips are more than just about pedalling long distances. They’re about exploring places off the beaten path, learning the stories behind the towns you pass through, and forging connections with people who share the same passion for the ride. And, of course, there’s always room for a little rock music along the way.

Next up? Who knows. But the adventure continues, one region at a time.

https://www.strava.com/activities/12593155985