Romagna Trail 2024

Have I Listened to My Smart Self?


It’s 9 PM, the sky is pitch-black, and my front light is running out of juice. After nearly an hour struggling through a sticky, peanut-butter-like section of less than a kilometer, I now stand at the entrance of a farm with a large "DO NOT ENTER" sign. Not quite the adventurous, freewheeling moment I envisioned earlier this morning, full of excitement and anticipation.

This year, in my quest to complete at least one bikepacking ride in each of Italy’s 20 regions, I signed up for the Romagna Bike Trail—a 310 km mixed-terrain adventure. The route is designed to showcase the lesser-known paths of the northern Emilia Romagna region, famous for Bologna and coastal gems like Rimini.

I’ve been hooked on bikepacking long before the gravel scene exploded and before a slew of events promised a laid-back experience connecting with nature. For a lifelong off-road enthusiast like me, the idea of extending the ride beyond just one day was irresistible.

But right now, I’m staring at that "DO NOT ENTER" sign, 12+ hours into the ride, wondering if I should have listened to my smart self.

The Early Stages of Adventure

The day started innocently enough with a 6 AM alarm. After a quick pack-up, I made my way to the event's 8 AM start, reminding myself to take it easy. "A smooth start," I thought, "around 100 km a day should give me plenty of time to soak in the scenery and enjoy the camaraderie."

Of course, once the ride kicked off, all those rational thoughts flew out the window. Despite recent stomach issues when riding beyond 10 hours, I couldn’t resist the urge to push hard. Spinning my legs and embracing the primal simplicity of the trails felt liberating. It’s one of the reasons I love bikepacking—no notifications, no schedules, just me, the bike, and the unknown ahead.

But, as with most adventures, the trail had other plans. A seemingly fast downhill stretch turned into a rocky, riverbed-like descent—definitely not what I expected for my gravel bike. An "easy" uphill section morphed into a gruelling hike-a-bike under the relentless sun. I began to second-guess myself: Should I have kept to my original, relaxed pace?

Now, here I am, with a fading light, no cell signal, and a pair of unfriendly dogs barking from the darkness. My Garmin insists to keep going through the gate, but the combination of territorial canines and a looming farm makes me reconsider.

Was this the moment I’d admit defeat? Did my lofty goals of bikepacking through Italy lose their charm? Maybe. But if I’d stuck to my comfort zone, I wouldn’t be here, inching closer to the next chapter of this wild ride. At the end I manage to reach the course, and blast thru a long descent to the town where I had booked a room 6 hours earlier.

Day 2: The Battle Continues

The next morning, my 6 AM alarm pulls me from dreams where I’m braver, smarter, and stronger. I need all the motivation I can get to face the course again. After a calorie-loaded breakfast and a thorough bike cleaning (my poor drivetrain!), I set off with renewed optimism.

The second day always tests my resolve. My body still ached from the previous day’s 172 km ride, especially after tackling 3,200 meters of elevation. But the Badlands playlist in my ears gave me a good start (yes, that event it’s on my bucket list too). The map looked promising—today’s ride would be easier, right?

Five km in, reality hits again: I’d lost my chain lube, and my power bank had barely charged (thanks, faulty cable). The next stretch, 30 km without a town in sight, was rougher than expected, and the terrain better suited for a mountain bike. I dropped into survival mode, switched off the music to conserve battery, and prayed for some sun to charge my Garmin.

By 9 PM, I finally crossed the finish line, relying on the kindness of locals for the last 15 km after my Garmin and phone both died. It sounds like a nightmare on paper—poor planning, mechanical setbacks, and physical exhaustion—but these moments are what make bikepacking so memorable.

Reflecting on the Journey

Would things have gone smoother if I’d listened to my smart self? Probably. But then, I wouldn’t have this story to share with you, nor would I have experienced the highs and lows that make these trips so special. Bikepacking isn’t about perfection; it’s about pushing beyond your limits, learning from the ride, and coming back for more.

As I gear up for my next adventure—the Basilicata Bike Trail—I can’t help but smile. These challenges aren’t setbacks; they’re part of the journey.

So, would I do it all again? Absolutely.

“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered” G. K. Chesterton

Location: Forli, Province of Forlì-Cesena, Italy

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